FEBEN London Fashion Week SS23 Menswear Show
As one of the UK’s most exciting up-and-coming designers, FEBEN creates stylish and sexy women’s clothing for her community. Working to shine a light on black women’s bodies, Feben Vemmenby is now returning to the London Fashion Week playground to showcase her third collection as part of the NEWGEN cohort. For FW22, the designer focused on displaying a range imbued with motifs of love and self-development. The presentation presented FEBEN in a delicate light while maintaining a refined design language. Today, the designer presents her Spring/Summer 2023 collection, welcoming a new wave of menswear.
For FEBEN, SS23 was about looking within herself and her own catalog of work. In turn, it was FEBEN redefined and refined, littered with references to introspection influenced by previous seasons. At the same time, Georges Bataille History of the eye – a short story described as centering on the “increasingly bizarre sexual perversions of a pair of teenage lovers, including an early depiction of Omorashi fetishism in Western literature” – has been subtly incorporated into the collection (see blue and white striped shirt from Look 24) alongside tarot card iconography as the devil, appearing here literally as a print on the front of a mesh mini dress.
However, it was menswear that really got the industry talking. While we’ve seen pieces from the designer made specifically for men before, previously focusing on signatures like textured high-waisted pants that were a derivative of FEBEN’s womenswear, this season provided a deeper understanding of the male outfit.
As such, asymmetrical zip-up jackets offered formality to smooth printed tops, flared pants with front slits blurred the line between genders, as did a black dress that was, at first glance, more of a sweater vest. elongated with soft peaks pleating the fabric. everywhere. The lapels were heavily pinched and the collars stabbed with impact, while the denim was given a textural makeover as it deformed onto itself on the leg, looking something between distress and foliage.
FEBEN’s SS23 collection can be seen in the gallery above. Stay tuned to Hypebeast for more London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2023 content as the week progresses, and find more content on the @HypebeastUK Instagram account.
In case you missed it, check out JW Anderson’s LFW collection.