What a tender New York fashion week!
I’m no cynic, but when I heard that the Fendi fashion show that took place Friday night at the Hammerstein Ballroom in Manhattan was a celebration of the 25th anniversary of the brand’s famous Baguette, I thought: a whole show of fashion ? For…a bag? Kim Jones is one of fashion’s brightest salespeople. and a couture collection for them too? – but the smooth, efficient and professional nature of his Fendi sometimes left me cold.
Boy, I was wrong. The Hammerstein’s floors were lined with beige carpeting and the walls lined with voluminous silver curtains in huge campy folds. Just after the lights went out, someone pulled back the curtain at the front of the track to reveal a huge mirror, which reminded me of the old gatehouse tower, where the tall guy in the suit stands a mirror and said: you let you in? “- and a raucous mix of house and techno music, from Simon Parris, began to shake the silvery expanse before us with nightclub havoc.
Jones’ clothes, meanwhile, were some of her hottest and funniest yet. The final piece on the show was a collaboration with Marc Jacobs, featuring his large signature block logo interwoven with Fendi’s on a number of oversized dresses, coats and pants. But I couldn’t help wondering – and not just because Baguette cheerleader Sarah Jessica Parker was sitting in the front row next to Kim Kardashian! — whether Jacobs’ sensibility had also influenced Jones’ stuff. (Jacobs was the one who hired Jones to design menswear for Vuitton at the time.)
The heart of the collection seemed to take staple girl’s treasures and delights, like polka dots, stripes and rhinestones, and ballet dancers take baseball caps and beanies, and remix them with the madness charged with the wider-eyed girl in line for the club. I could really see these characters, pacing the club district of the moment in cargo skirts and see-through blouses (with their it-bags, of course), thinking of themselves, If I come walking like i belong here…. (Even funnier, every once in a while a female voice would burst into the soundtrack to say, “EXCUSE ME, I’M ON THE LIST!” Sidney Toledano, CEO of fashion group LVMH, smiled and typed madly of the foot.) outfit for the club and To take it out.
The Marc Jacobs woman has always been someone who wears an outfit that shouldn’t work but does, and I think that’s because there’s a real tenderness towards the Jacobs woman, and towards Jacobs himself. , especially lately (#gratefulnothateful, as he often recalls his enviably sick Instagram outfit photos). The human quality of these clothes gave Jones’ delicacy a sweet softness.
Plus, the party atmosphere was fantastic and downright good: who can resist Christy Turlington, Amber Valetta, Kate Moss and Shalom Harlow bickering in the front row, and Linda Evangelista as a reminder look? ! It might have looked like a crazy collaboration – the bags were made with the formidable Japanese bag brand Porter, which you should immediately check out if you haven’t heard of them; and Tiffany & Co. also provided bling; and one of the Baguettes was designed by SJP, but instead it looked like a big kiss to LVMH’s cool but impatient New Yorker. You support this girl!
The feeling that you support the girl is a particularly New York thing. Every season at Collina Strada, you can see designer Hillary Taymour’s metamorphosis from caterpillar to butterfly, and it’s clear she’s patiently reaching her emerging monarch stage, if not quite her adult butterfly stage. (The show took place at a monarch butterfly station in Brooklyn – come with me here, people!)
Taymour is a fascinating woman, the kind of person who moved to New York and really found herself among other misfits who are deeply eager to change the world, however impossible that may seem. This sense of the environment was mostly expressed through loose, comfy pants, crazy-colored sweatshirts and funky oversized blouses, but in this collection, Taymour was thinking about how she could expand her opportunities on the mat. red, which is a good idea, because the celebrity landscape has changed a lot in the last five or even two years. Many young celebrities expect the clothes they wear to press conferences to say something and, frankly, look like nothing else. Her peplum shapes (essentially, as she put it, an upside-down wine glass), translucent empire-waist dress tops, and floral bras with satin pants are all exactly the kind of upside-downs. crazy days of the heavy evening wear an uncompromising Zoomer demands for a great night out. The slip dress that charming Hari Nef wore in the opening look over plaid pants would also look lovely with a pair of second-hand Manolo Blahniks and earrings from Frank Ocean’s Homer jewelry line ( lab-grown diamonds! Get hip!).
She’s just putting together the craziest, wackiest outfit for the club and pulling it off.
You can see her trying to rise above the art school vibe she is often lumped into. The question I was left with after the show was whether her bread and butter would still be those great, comfy pants and sweatshirts—essentially backpacker-rave-chic—or whether she wanted to be the Oscar de la Renta of environmentalist sexy. Anyway, what interests me about Taymour’s work is that she has guts. She truly believes in what she does, and her work, in messaging and the beautiful clothes themselves, leads with sincerity.
Knowing that the designer feels this makes a big difference. Backstage at the Proenza Schouler show, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez talked about how the latter’s Latinx background inspired the show’s zest and sexiness. I loved the sexy feel of the opening looks, like a fringe top that slides over a stretch of midriff paired with a puffy mini skirt, or a gold fringe top that slides over a crotchless gold skirt. The models’ skin shone under the crochet and lace (and the cast was killer—Shalom Harlow and bella and Kendal. Yeah!) Surprisingly, for such a summery collection, the skinny curly coats in shocking lime green and bitchy angel white were the kind of thing a woman immediately sees and classifies as a must-have (or pre-order a few days later on Moda Operandi , the site owned by Proenza bestie Lauren Santo Domingo).
But there were a few too many Bottega-isms in this outing, especially in the big, layered leather skirts and chunky shoe bottoms. With totally huge bell bottoms, they felt like attempted items instead of what a New York woman expects from Proenza, which is the perfect slightly odd dress – like the black turtleneck with the big white skirt from the fall 2022 collection that’s already sold out virtually everywhere – or just the right coat, or the skirt that looks sophisticated without being a snooze. McCollough and Hernandez have the ability to create something fabulous rather than trendy, and I wish they would use that skill even more.
Rachel Tashjian is fashion news director at Harper’s Bazaar, working across print and digital platforms. Previously she was QGfirst fashion critic of, and worked as associate editor of GARAGE and as a writer at vanity lounge. She has written for publications such as Reading forum and art forumand is the creator of the invitation-only newsletter, Opulent Tips.